Bolts, Studs, proper placement and use
We have assembled many many Nailhead's, and have found the original head and main bolts to be excellent (use engine oil on the threads when torquing), Sealer on head bolt threads in not needed, that is a chevy problem .. I really see no reason to replace them with new bolts. If you want new ones look in our parts pages, we have them all. We do like to replace the rod bolts with ARP ones just to be on the safe side and those can use a higher torque setting. We have had some customers that did not realize there were more than just short and long head bolts, some cars like 63-64 Riviera and all 1965-66 401-425 with AC use a special head bolt that is about 1/4" longer on the front passenger side, the bolt goes through the ALT/AC compressor bracket and into the head. NO NOT use a studded head bolt in that location. The rear AC compressor bracket DOES use a studded head bolt along with 2 for the PS pump and one on the rear of each head for ground straps. Stainless bolts and any bolt screwing into aluminum need anti-seize compound. When removing frozen water pump bolts, always try a little heat from a propane torch, it does not take much heat to expand the aluminum of the timing cover. MAKE SURE THERE IS NO GASOLINE NEAR THE FLAME.. Always torque the crank balancer bolt to 220 lbs (except 264-322 engines) with red loc-tite, not just to lock it on but it serves as a thread lube also.